Taxis, Rain, and Culture

Yet another busy day of orientation! Today's main activity was a scavenger hunt; we divided into groups of 3-4 and headed out with a list of 3 places to go and information to get about each. My group had to got Al-Pasha, the Shoban(sp?) Library, and Reem Shawarmas.

We started out looking for the first--took a taxi to second circle (I think there are seven main roundabouts in the area). We asked around, but nobody knew where it was, or even what it was. (We didn't have a street address; while they have street names etc here, nobody really finds places that way. Landmarks are the way to go.) Finally we moved on to the library, a really beautiful place. We had to ask for a film/event schedule, and between my little Arabic and what English the librarians knew, we got that, somewhat explained why we needed it, and asked again about Al-Pasha. Pasha was a social station in the Ottoman Empire, and is the nickname for the Intelligence Director, but that could help us find it. Or him. We didn't know.

We did get directions to Reem Shawarmas, though, and headed back up the hill through the rain to find it. Yup, rain. I think it's an unusual amount even for winter here; the streets and drains weren't equipped to handle it, and neither were we. By that time all four of us were drenched.

Reem Shawarmas is a little booth of a restaurant--a kitchen and a counter, basically--and the oldest shawarma place in Jordan. "Kem sena hoona?" "Arbaeen yowm." "How many years here?" "40 years." Shawarmas are pita filled with shredded lamb with veggies, and the meat is zaki--delicious. And the roasting haunch was bigger than Jason! We took it to a small internet cafe, ordered tea, and ate.

While we were eating, one of the SIT directors called to see how we were doing, and helped us out by telling us to ask for Hamam Al-Pasha, not just Al-Pasha. With that, we got there fairly quickly; our most helpful guide left the store he was in to walk down the street a bit and give directions in Arabic. Hamam Al-Pasha is a Turkish Bath, and a beautiful building, with a fountain with fish, stone pillars, and a vaulted ceiling. Spa and massage stuff is in the morning and early afternoon for women and late afternoon to evening for men, and reasonably priced, too. After that we headed back.

Traffic here makes me glad I'm not driving. There are very few lights or marked lanes, and many roundabouts and U-turns (you're more likely to go left by making a U-turn and then turning right, I think). Spaces that American drivers would consider frighteningly close Jordanian drivers call plenty of room, and cobbled sidewalks double as parking. The taxi rides we took were fun, almost like roller coasters, and the thought of driving myself in this makes me extra glad taxi fares are cheap; we've yet to pay more than 3JD for a ride.

There are two different cultures that have made today interesting. The first, of course, is local. I'm sure I stick out like a sore thumb, but the scavenger hunt gave us a chance to explore it a bit in groups and get a feel for communicating. The second is American college culture. Sometimes it's a relief to have other students around me, like on the trip--we understand each other and are comfortable with each other. On the other hand... I'm, ah, somewhat conservative and a teetotaler, too, which is a bit abnormal for students my age.

We meet out homestay families tomorrow! I'm looking forward to it.